Número 44, Abril 2013
 
La Plaza Mayor

Líderman Vásquez. Fotografía: Foto Rodríguez
 

Se ve a unos cuantos parroquianos delante de la iglesia y a un jinete enrruanado que se dirige a Palacé. Todavía no es el Parque Berrío, es “La plaza mayor”, sitio en donde cada ocho días los campesinos ofrecen sus productos. Puede ser lunes en esta fotografía, lunes eterno que nunca avanza hacia el martes, vacío, lento. Cuando el viejo José Arcadio descubrió la jugada sucia del tiempo, en un Macondo donde siempre era lunes, se armó de una tranca pero todo fue inútil; lo amarraron al castaño que había en el patio. Puede que en este pueblo de gentes dedicadas al negocio y a alardear de sus nobles orígenes, porque todos, sin excepción, habían nacido en la plaza principal, nadie se percatara de la jugada sucia del tiempo. Si el almacén se movía y había oro en las minas, y las importaciones y exportaciones iban bien, ¿para qué preocuparse?

El pueblo, los desmerecidos de siempre, la población negra e indígena, los mestizos, en fin, la gentuza, vivía borracha. Las chicherías que había en las calles próximas a la plaza eran los únicos sitios donde los pobres podían divertirse y olvidar su pobreza, olvidar que siempre era lunes. Con la chicha pasaba lo mismo que con Chávez: todos, políticos, obispos, intelectuales, industriales, la atacaban. Decían que embrutecía, volvía fea la descendencia y era la matriz generadora del piojo, la sarna, los forúnculos. Connotados estudiosos de nuestra historia veían en ella el origen de la proclividad del pueblo a la violencia. Tantos ataques contra una bebida basada en la fermentación, como el vino y la sidra, y contra los sitios donde se vendía, las chicherías, debieron pasar de la verborrea a la acción.

Varios incendios no explicados suficientemente por la historia acabaron con la arquitectura colonial de las casas de bareque. Los que hubo entre 1921 y 1922 fueron la oportunidad esperada desde comienzos de siglo para embellecer la plaza con la tardía arquitectura republicana que caracterizó durante algunas décadas a este sitio de la ciudad.

Por la época en que fue tomada la fotografía no había monumento en mitad de la plaza. La hierba lo cubría todo, y dos caminos en diagonal la atravesaban. Uno iba de Colombia a Palacé, el otro de Boyacá hacia donde está hoy la escultura de Arenas Betancourt, frente al Banco Popular. La Candelaria se ve toda, y a su lado y al frente no hay edificios altos que la apabullen. No es una iglesia monumental, pero se ve y domina el espacio. La sombra de uno

que otro cagajón resalta sobre la hierba agostada. Donde hoy se hacen los vendedores de lotería es pura manga. Las casas que rodean la plaza tienen la misma fachada: puertas altas y anchas, balcones largos con igual número de puertas. Quizá en una de estas casas, o en otra de más allá, da igual, hayan hecho la noche anterior algún muchachito que en el futuro se jactaría de sus nobles orígenes.

El único adorno que hay es la pileta frente a una de las puertas de la iglesia. Pocos pasos más allá, en la esquina que forma Palacé con Boyacá, se ve a unos cuantos parroquianos. En días como esos debió ser sitio de encuentro de feligreses que venían a limpiar sus almas y a practicar por un rato la maledicencia, antes de recibir el cuerpo de Cristo.

Sobresale un edificio de tres pisos que no se ve en la fotografía, pues está justo al frente de la iglesia, formando esquina en Bolívar con Boyacá. Es el edificio más alto de la ciudad, aunque tiene la misma fachada de las casas: puertas altas y anchas, paredes enjalbegadas, techo de dos aguas. Durante algunos años fue sede de la Gobernación de Antioquia, que después pasó a una casa de Calibío.


 

 

Fotografía: Foto Rodríguez

 

 
No era una plaza que destacara por su belleza arquitectónica, pero era agradable. La iglesia, con sus tres torres, se erguía por encima de las casas, y desde muy lejos imponía su presencia. Las montañas que rodean la ciudad y producen la sensación de estar en el fondo de una taza se veían desde cualquier parte. Después del incendio, cuando la modernizaron, fue interesante, y hasta bonita. Hoy es un parque feo, hediondo, y nadie se jacta de haber nacido allí. Lustrabotas, indigentes, anunciadores de apocalipsis, cantantes callejeros, magos, estafadores, brujos, puticas, vendedores de cualquier cosa, son el público permanente.

Alguna vez entré a La Candelaria a conocer al Cristo gay. Es oscura, y está llena de feligreses que han comprado la lotería y le piden a Dios o a cualquiera de sus ayudantes, los santos, las santas y las vírgenes, el gordo completo, cuatro mil quinientos millones. En un rincón esta el Cristo: feo, maniquebrado, el Cristo gay.

En la actualidad la iglesia no se ve. Rodeada de edificios altos y feos, ha desaparecido del espacio real. Como esos órganos que alguna vez cumplieron una función, pero que la evolución fue dejando atrás y ahora no sirven para nada, La Candelaria sigue en su sitio y mucha gente pasa sin percatarse de su presencia. UC

 

  1. Carlos Montoya's avatar Carlos Montoya dice:
    Hace 24/05/2013

    Y esta que debía ser un lugar vibrante de alegría, un lugar para la tertulia y el encuentro ahora es un sitio para huir y en parte, debido al mayr "símbolo de orgullo" de la ciudad: el metro de Medellín.

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  2. Miguel Tavera's avatar Miguel Tavera dice:
    Hace 24/05/2013

    Me gusto mucho esta columna, como antioqueño a veces olvido que existen lugares que no siempre fueron como los conozco

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